One of my TNT patterns is the Blackwood Cardigan by Helen’s Closet. Helen’s patterns are so well drafted and I’ve made every one at some point or another! I’m even currently working on a March Top for the shop window (which is conveniently in my size…).
This is my 4th Blackwood and second at this length. It was my birthday last month (lockdown birthday, woo) so I treated myself to some Meet Milk waffle knit viscose fabric from Guthrie and Ghani. I have to say that the waffle texture was an utter nightmare to sew with as my machine didn’t like it at all. I’ve got an old Janome 525s that usually tackles everything but the springiness screwed with the tension. I ended up using a walking foot for the pockets and they’re still slightly wavy. I’m sure no one is looking that closely at them though!
This pattern is drafted for both a B cup and a D cup and features a generous overlap between sizes which makes my life so much easier! There’s also a comprehensive size chart with lots of finished garment measurements which takes the guess work away. My measurements were 100cm bust, 88cm high bust (12 D cup), 87cm waist and 120cm hips. The finished garment measurement chart put me at a 16 for the hips and because its a straight pattern from bust to hips I graded from 12D cup bust to 16 hips even though the body size chart would put me at 18-20 for hips. As always, I added 5cm to the length as I’m 5’10” and its drafted for 5’6″.
Only issue other than fighting the fabric was my lack of black cones on the overlocker. I usually sew at the shop so all my equipment is there but with the UK lockdown happening, I brought my machines home and left my spare threads! I decided to be impatient and used the navy threads I had to hand. Its fine on the bulk of the cardi but I really should’ve held off attaching the back band until I had the black threads at home. You can see the overlocking when it blows open and as there’s no buttons, it does that a lot. I’ll fix it when I can be bothered to unpick it!