Tweaking the True Bias Ogden Cami

Today I’m going to talk about the adjustments I made to my True Bias Ogden Cami that I’ve been wearing constantly in this lovely warm weather.  It’s been a mad month since I last posted because in my other guise I am a GCSE Chemistry exam marker and I’ve been doing that all hours of the day and night rather than sewing (boo!). Thankfully that’s over now and I’m going to be making up for that with a few more summer items before I crack on with updating my autumn wardrobe with some layering items. If you have any recommendations, message me!

So, after quite a few conversations over on Instagram with the lovely Miranda, aka Mirry_Maker, I embarked on an FBA for the Ogden. Now if you’re one of the few people out there that haven’t tackled an Ogden Cami yet, its a lovely simple v-necked cami top with spaghetti straps and a partial lining. My problem was that its not a darted pattern but I’ve got an ample chest and the pattern is designed for a 5’5″ person so it was ridiculously short on me.  Miranda helpfully was a step ahead of me and tried a few adjustments over her bust to get it to fit her so I had a good idea what would work and what wouldn’t! I followed this tutorial over on the Curvy Sewing Collective blog which added a dart to the pattern. I sized down and then did an FBA on it as that seems to fit me better. It had the added advantage of moving the armscye up slightly which meant it gaped a lot less than the toile I made. I then added 4″ to the length to compensate for my extra height.

True Bias Ogden CamiA few people have commented that the straps were a bit too long on them but I didn’t adjust these at all, and if anything I could do with an extra inch so that it drapes better over my cleavage. Ogden is a loose fit by design and although that means its nice and breezy, I find it makes me look a bit too wide over my stomach, so I’m going to size down another size at the waist on the next one. I’m also wondering whether it would work as a jersey version without the darts. I’ll post that when I’ve tried it! One thing I will say is that if you have a larger bust or you’re using sheer fabrics, it’s worth lengthening the lining unless you want people to be able to see your bra or the shadow of your lining across the middle of your boobs.

True Bias Ogden CamiAll in all, a great pattern to sew up. It’s nice and quick to make once you’ve faffed with the fit and will work in bold viscose and lawn prints with shorts for summer as well as neutral colours and nicer fabrics like silks for workwear. I have a feeling it’s quickly going to become one of my TNTs.

9 replies on “Tweaking the True Bias Ogden Cami

  • Ellen

    Have you or any of your readers ever tried making the straps wider? I like the look of the Ogden, but really don’t want bra straps showing, not a good sight on a woman in her 60s. Any advice or experience would be welcome. Your top looks great.

    • Gemma Kay

      Thanks Ellen! It would definitely be possible to make the straps a little wider but you have to slightly amend the shape of the top of the pattern to make them wider by the same amount, or decrease the seam allowance there, as the straps are inserted into the space between the main pieces and the lining. It is fairly easy to redraft the edges though as they’re a simple shape.

    • Gemma Kay

      Hi Annie! Just noticed that my reply disappeared somehow. I did add darts to the lining as well. Once you’ve added them to the front piece it’s easy to just trace a new lining piece as it’s just a shorter version of it. Gem x

  • Janet Poole

    I made my straps wider, and amended the shape at the top to accommodate the wider straps. Looks ok and covers my bra, but I still take the precaution of wearing a colour coordinating bra.
    I also did an FBA, but made the mistake of using a lovely Thai silk that sticks out like a tent, so I haven’t worn it much.

  • Angela Bolton

    Hi I just made this in a size 14, it fits quite well but I think if I did FBA I could get away with a 12, I’m a 38DD, can I ask which bust size you are? Looks lovely thanks

    • Gemma Kay

      Hi Angela! I’m a 34FF, with a high bust of 90cm and bust of 102cm. Doing an FBA did allow me to go down 2 sizes. I chose the size based on the high bust measurement rather than across the bust which made a big difference to the fit. Hope that helps! Gem x

  • Emmy

    I’m adjusting mine as well as my toile looked quite bad. I need to do a FBA and go down a size, plus add length. How did you add length and still keep the nice curved shape of the side seam? I need to add 3-4″ but can’t figure it out.

    • Gemma Kay

      Hi! I did the FBA using the method I linked and then added the extra length from about 3cm below the armscye. I made sure that the edge of the lengthened section followed the same shape as the original patttern. Hope that helps? Gem

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